Paris Travel Guide: Where to Eat, Drink, Sleep, & Play in the City of Love

Paris is overrated

No one. Ever.

Whether it’s your 1st or 20th time visiting Paris, this guide is for you. Click below to link directly to my favorite spots in Paris or keep scrolling to read in full.

Arrondissements (Arr.)

First, let’s get our bearings. Paris is divided into 20 sections (called “arrondissements”) each with their own flair. Arrs start in the middle of the city at 1 and spiral out clockwise until you reach 20.

Generally, the smaller numbers are going to be the more traditional, Housmanian Paris you picture when you think of the city. I would recommend sleeping in Arr. 1-6, especially if it’s your first time to Paris or if it’s a short trip.

Arrondissement = Ah-Ron-Dees-Mohn

Here are some of my favorites:

Arr. 1

Museum district. Home of the Louvre and Tuileries Gardens. This is a great place to stay, especially if it’s your first time and you want easy access to many of the attractions. Pros: central location. Cons: more expensive accommodations, touristy.

Arr. 3-4

The Marais. Narrow, cobblestone streets and pedestrian alleys filled with restaurants, bars, and shops. If you do an Air B&B/VRBO stay, this is a fun neighborhood to be in.

Arr. 5

Latin Quarter. Classic, old school Paris. Home to the Sorbonne, students, and an active nightlife.

Arr. 6

St. Germain. Beautiful, old world, Belle Époque. Go to the Boulevard Saint Germain. Just GPS “Café de Flore”, wander around, and get lost. Plenty of shopping and lunch spots.

Arr. 7

Eiffel Tower. I would not recommend staying here. It’s very tempting if you find a VRBO with an Eiffel Tower view, but the area is a little out of the way and can be very touristy.

Arr. 8

Fancy houses overlooking the Eiffel Tower and great shopping. However, I would avoid Champs Elyse. It’s just ultra touristy. If you want to do the whole “tree-lined Paris shopping” thing, go to Avenue Montaigne instead.

Arr. 18

Montmartre of Amelie and Moulin Rouge fame. Another Arr. I would not book accommodations in- it’s too far from the rest of the city to be practical; however, plan to spend the day in the area. It’s worth a visit for the view of the city alone. Climb the stairs to the Sacre-Coeur and take in one of the prettiest views of the city.

Eat

  1. Laudree & Pierre Herme Macarons: These are the 2 popular macaron stores. My favorite will always be the classic Laudree Vanilla, but Pierre Herme has some unique flavors that are entertaining to try.
  2. Angelina: Perhapse the most famous hot chocolate in Paris (Arr. 1)
  3. Caffe de Flore: Quintessential Parisian café in St. Germaine. Sit outside and people watch. You can also try Les Deux Magots next door – famous for hot chocolate and being a favorite of Picasso & Hemingway.
  4. Ralphs: Another lunch spot in St. Germaine, located within the Ralph Lauren store. Go for the burgers and pretty setting.
  5. L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon: Michelin star in St. Germain (Arr. 7)
  6. L’Arpege: Pricey and hard to get a reservation, but if you’re lucky enough to grab a seat (3 months in advance) you won’t regret it. Go for the vegetarian tasting menu (Arr. 7)
  7. Pains Vin Fromage: As the name suggests, this is a casual spot in the Marais to grab bread, wine, and cheese. A fondu place with out the cheesy/touristy vibe (pun very much intended).
  8. Le Soufle: restaurant that only serves soufle! (Arr. 1)
  9. Shangs Palace: Amazing Chinese food in the Shangri-la hotel. After dinner ask to go to the “Song Bar” to grab a drink and watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle. The tower sparkles every hour at night. The Thai restaurant in the Shangri-la is great too! (Arr. 8)
  10. L’Avenue: on the shopping street Avenue Montaigne. Kind of sceney and overpriced for what it is but fun. The menu has something for everyone (Arr. 8)
  11. Le Dali: Feel like Marie Antoinette (while she still had her head) and eat cake at Le Meurice hotel. Pastries are served al la carte during the day or during their afternoon tea. For a splurge-worth dinner, try the hotel’s restaurant, Restaurant Le Meurice (Arr. 1)
  12. Baffo: Italian in the Marais
  13. Holybelly: Brunch
  14. Ellsworth: Delicious brunch spot near the Palais Royal
  15. Buvette: Yes, like the one in NYC. But it’s a great brunch in any country (Arr. 9)
  16. Le Restaurant: Saint Germaine inside L’hotel. Gorgeous ambiance. Another splurge meal but
    worth it. Get the dessert!
  17. Le Loulou: Brunch spot near Shakespear and Company Bookstore and the Luxembourg Gardens (Arr. 5)
  18. Pink Mamma: Italian by the restaurant group behind Circolo Popolare in London
  19. L’as du Fallafel: Falafel stand in the Marais. Go for an inexpensive, mouthwatering fllafel pita and wander around the neighborhood. Perfectly located along the narrow alleys of the Marais (Arr. 4)
  20. L’Orangerie: In the Four Seasons. Basically, boogie farm to table. Go for lunch
  21. Les Philosophes: Go for the French onion soup (Arr. 4)

Drink

  1. Hemmingway Bar at the Ritz: My favorite bar in Paris! Go at 5:45 PM and wait for it to open at 6 PM. At 6:05, there will be a line to get in. The prices are steep, but the drinks are stiff (and delicious). Make your dinner reservation for 8:30 or 9 PM to give yourself plenty of time to indulge! (Arr. 1)
  2. Little Red Door: Great cocktails, super cozy, menu is a children’s pop up book (need I say more) (Arr. 4, the Marais)
  3. Bar 228: Romantic, classy, and kind of sultry bar with live piano music in one of the most decadent hotels in Paris. We love a good nightcap here (Le Maurice, Arr. 1)
  4. Hotel bar at the Peninsula Hotel: Gorgeous gated hotel with a cozy bar on the left when you walk in. Great cocktail menu for pre-dinner drinks (Arr. 8)
  5. Le Syndicat: Hipstery vibe with old school hip hop playing and a great cocktail menu using only French spirits (Arr. 10)
  6. Bar 8: Mandarin Oriental Hotel (Arr. 1)
  7. Candelaria: For the mezcal and tequila lovers (Arr. 3)
  8. Experimental Cocktail Club: Craft cocktail bar (Arr. 2)
  9. Sherry Butt: Casual. Creative cocktails in the Marais (Arr. 4)

Sleep

Westin Vendome
  1. Ritz Paris: The dream hotel for a quintessential, luxury Parisian stay. (Arr. 1)
  2. Westin Vendome: Located a few blocks from the Ritz. Same zip code but has a price tag with one less 0. We’ve stayed here several times due to the location across from the Tulleries and the ability to book on Marriott loyalty points. (Arr. 1)
  3. Plaza Athenne: Chicest hotel in Paris, located on the Avenue Montaigne. (Arr. 8)
  4. Shangri-la Hotel: Luxury in the 8th with the best Eiffel Tower views.
  5. Le Pavillon de la Reine: 5 star boutique in the Marais that we are excited to visit sometime soon! (Arr. 4)
  6. The Hoxton: Trendy, younger vibe located just outside the Marais. Think Soho House interiors (they used the same design team). (Arr. 2)
  7. VRBO / One Fine Stay: I love an apartment rental in Paris! Stay in the Saint Germaine for a classic Parisian feel, fine dining, and boutiques or the Marais for a more nightlife, vintage shopping, and cobblestone alleys.

Play

Shopping

  1. Avenue Montaigne: Home of Dior, Chanel, Celine, and Co. If you’re in the market for a new designer bag, this is where you go to buy. Don’t forget your passport! You’ll need it for the VAT refund paperwork. (Arr. 8)
  2. Shakespeare and Company Bookstore: The oldest English language bookstore in Paris. The nearby Abbey Bookshop is also well worth a visit. On a beautiful spring day pick up a book, some snacks, and walk about a 1/2 mile to the Luxembourg Gardens for a little picnic. (Arr. 6)

Museums

  1. Muse de Orsay: My favorite museum in Paris! It’s a converted train station that houses Monet, Manet, Van Gough, etc. The line to get in isn’t super long and you only need 1-2 hours to see everything.
  2. The Lourve: I honestly don’t love the Louvre. Its crowded and touristy and I always get lost. If you’re not a Renaissance art lover, don’t feel guilty skipping it! If you do go, buy tickets online in advance.
  3. Centre Pompidou: Modern art museum in Arr. 4.

Gardens & Parks

Tuileries
  1. Luxembourg Gardens: My favorite park in Paris. In the St. Germain and near the Shakespeare and Co. Bookstore (Arr. 6)
  2. Jardin des Tuileries: In front of the Louvre. Bring a book or a picnic and enjoy (Arr. 1)
  3. Parc Monceau: Lush, green, and the perfect place to be lazy on a sunny day (Arr. 8)
  4. Park of Buttes Chaumont: Quieter and less touristy (Arr. 19)
  5. Arenes de Lutece: Step back in time to Roman Paris (Arr. 5)

Photo Spots

  1. Palais Royal: You’ve seen the black and white striped statues on Instagram. They’re located at the Palais Royal, not far from the Louvre and the Ritz. There’s also a pretty garden to stroll through after you’ve taken your selfie. (Arr. 1)
  2. Trocadero: Super touristy spot (they’re everywhere) but the most uninterrupted view of the Eifel Tower in the city. You can get off at the metro stop labeled Trocadero and you’re right there. Go early in the AM just before sunrise.
  3. Avenue de Camoens: Great view from a beautiful neighborhood across the river from the Eiffel tower. This will be a private viewing spot as it’s in a residential / non-touristy area. I recommend having an uber drop you off here and then walk to the more touristy Trocadero after (apx. 0.5 miles away)
  4. Pont Alexandre III: Beautiful, ornate bridge. Eiffel tower is little in the distance
  5. Rue de l’Universite: Street leading up to the base of the tower. The photographer should get low and shoot up to get you and the Eifel Tower in the shot.
  6. Rue Cremieux: The Noting Hill of Paris. Colorful homes that break from the Haussmannian mold.
  7. The sinking house of Montmartre: Spoiler – it’s not really sinking, but this optical illusion does make for a fun photo spot.
Rue Cremieux

Other

  1. Free Walking Tour: One of the first things I do in a new city is a “free walking tour”. I know “tour” usually sounds like “fall asleep on a big red bus”, but these are actually really fun! Google “free walking tour Paris” and you’ll find several companies. We’ve used Sandmans in several European cities and have had a great experience. These tours are not really free- there’s no ticket price but you do tip the guide at the end in whatever amount you believe the tour was worth. Tours are usually around 2 hours with plenty of stops for the guide to tell funny/interesting stories about historical sites.
  2. Picnic along the Seine: Stop at the local market for some snacks and enjoy it with a water view.
  3. Montmartre: Neighborhood of “Amelie” fame. Go up to the sacre coeur (church of the sacred heart). It’s up on a hill overlooking the entire city. Go on a clear day so you have a nice view.
  4. Opera Garnier: aka the Phantom of the Opera building. Go for the gorgeous architecture and strike a pose a la Emily in Paris.
  5. Galeries Lafayette macaron baking class: Yes, you can learn how to make this iconic French snack.
  6. Pere Lachaise Cemetery: To pay your respects to Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison.
  7. Sainte Chapelle: Gothic chapel in the Ile de la Cite famous for its stained glass. Skip the day tour and book an evening concert. Google “Sainte Chapelle Concert” and several options pop up. Click here for one company with a concert series at the venue. Tickets are usually reasonable priced for an hour’s worth of live classical music in a stunning setting.
  8. The Catacombs: Underground Paris tunnels and final resting place of over 6 million.
  9. Walk everywhere! Want to find those hidden gems? Pick a neighborhood and get lost- there’s so much beauty in Paris, you’re bound to stumble upon something incredible.
View from the Shangri-la Hotel

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